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Basting A long straight stitch used to hold fabric layers together temporarily.
Casing A fabric "tunnel" made to enclose elastic or a drawstring.
Clipping A straight cut through inside curve to within 1/16" of stitching so seam allowance’s outer edge can spred when turned back.
Cutting Layout A diagram which shows the correct, most efficient way to fold the fabric and place the required pattern pieces on the fabric before cutting. Different layouts are provided for different sizes and different widths of fabric.
Darts A basic structural element that will allow fabric to conform to particular body contours or curves.
Gathering The process of drawing a given amount of fabric into a predetermined, smaller area, along several stitching lines, to create soft, even folds.
Grade (also called layer) Cutting seam alllowances to different widths.
Grainline Refers to the direction in the fabric created by the warp yarns which run parallel to the selvage.
Machine Hem A study hem done by machine most commonly with a straight stitch. Most often the raw edge is turned under twice to the wrong side (inside of garment). Used most often on casual clothing.
Nap A pile fabric or fabric printed with a one-way design is considered to have this. Nap fabrics require all pattern piece to face the same directions.
Notches Diamond shaped symbols on the cutting line of pattern pieces. They are useful when determining which fabric peices go together.
Notching Cutting outside curves by clipping away V-shaped wedges from seam allowance to remove excess fabric.
Notions Most often includes everything needed to for a sewing project except the fabric. Thread is always a required notion.
Overedge seam Start with a 1/4" seam allowance. Use a special stitch pattern that is a combination of straight and zigzag stitches. The zigzag stitches go over the raw edge of 1/4" seam to strenghten and finish the seam.
Seam Most often, right sides of fabric are placed together, pin at right angles to seam. Stitching is usually done with a standard 5/8" seam allowance. All seams should be backstitched at the beginning and end to prevent seam from coming undone.
Seam Allowance The distance between the cut edge of the fabric and the stitching. The most common seam allowance is 5/8".
Selvage The finished edge of the fabric which runs parallel to the grainline.
Staystitching A row of directional stitching, placed just inside the seamline (most often 1/2") to prevent fabric from stretching out in the process of making the garment.
Trim Cutting away half of the seam allowance.